tunisia bike tour 2011

Just roll mouse over road to go to that day
Europe above and Tunis below- actual tracks taking from GPS
In between 24 hours of ferry travel (or 40 on the return with technical problems)

Day 01 : Wednesday 4th May 2011 : Hull and the boat to Zeebrugge, Belgium

Miles : 133

Time : 3 h 25 m

Mov. ave : 39mph

An easy start to the tour and a nice run to Hull over the North York Moors and a spot of lunch in the Lion Inn on Blakey Ridge. The weather excellent and made for a great start to the tour. Now for the boring bit, our first night of 4 on a ferry.

As the trip was being called the "Star Wars Tour" it was good to leaving on 4th May "May the forth be with you"

Day 02 : Thursday 5th May 11 : Annecy , France

Miles : 523

Time : 10h 30m

Mov. ave : 71mph

26c and sunny

523 miles to Annecy and worth it all, at least after the long hit we could relax.

Richard is the first to have to break open the tool kit, BMW 0 KTM 1 aosta

Annecy always a favorite and it was Neil's first time , so he can pose

Planned as a long day and a long day it was, we complain if it's raining and complain if it's too hot. Well today it was hot and long. With a target of over 500 miles to do and a urgency to do it. The peage was quiet and at a cost of €35 for a bike its not surprising.

The urgency was the the reward of Mules au curry washed down with Leffe Ruby in Annecy . We only just made it , a combination of the miles and a problem with Richards KTM would lose some time. It was 8pm by the time we pulled into town and even Paul managed to get ready in double quick time.

The weather could not have been better and a pre booked room in Annecy would make for a good evening ahead.

Day 03 : Friday 6th May: Aosta , Italy

Miles : 133

Time : late start

Mov. ave : 36mph

25c in town 10c on top


	Today was a lot slower over the passes via Chamonix , but excellent roads.

	The first pass of the day after the village of La Clussaz

	Mont Blanc from Chamonix Maybe next time, a wonderful day out using the cable car, and the weather was perfect for it.

	The road to St Bernard Col was closed, so Tunnel at €13 a shot for 3.5 mile it was the way we had to go.
	Richards bike was the talk of the day, an early pick up by the dealer would leave us to ponder our next move? A problem with the suspension was to blame and the hope of an early fix soon disappeared. Eventually the remaining 3 would set off and Richard would catch up via a shorter route around 4pm. The days run was top drawer despite the late start we would witness heights of over 5000 foot on several occasions. The highlight for me was my yearly fix of the run into Chamonix Mont Blanc via La Clussaz and the wonderful road over one of the best biking roads in europe giving us a wonderful sight of Mont Blanc looming over the town in brilliant sunshine. Time being the enemy would prevent a trip to the top of the Aiquille du Midi. Our last leg would take us to through Switzerland and finally into Italy for our nights stop at Aosta in Italy.

Day 04: Genoa and the boat to Tunisia

Miles : 152 (946)

Time : 2h 17m

Mov. ave : 66mph

26c Sunny

Day 04 and the Autoroute was used just to get there, 140mile at €21 each

First sighting of the ship and the mayhem to follow

Stocking up with supplies for the trip. Just as well as the food on board was poor

Typical over laden car

Everyone get out and push, we seen some sights

Early start to reach the ferry is all that was on our minds today. Paul after another early night still looked rough and the coffee was brought to sort him out. The decision was taken just to cover the miles ASAP. At least the scenery was good and road not busy until the last bit. At a cost of €21 its not a cheap option.

The port was a nightmare no sign no nothing all the vehicles being heavily over loaded with junk. The check in was a mess, it was not until after a hours wait and after an instruction to board the boat were we to learn that we need to check in and visit passport control. The boat appears to be very new and the accommodation is excellent, however not many book the cabins and people are lying everywhere, stairways and corridors are particularly popular. The evening eventually passes listening to tales from others on why not to stay in Tunis. Sunday we are told is a bad day for demonstrations and our booked hotel is where all of them are held, next to the big watch we are told.

We take the decision to stick to the plan, take a look and decide from there. We will not dock till 4pm and time always ticks away on the formalities and sunset just after 7pm will not allow many choices.

Day 05 : Sunday 8th May 2011: Tunis , Tunisia

Miles : 8mile

Time : 20m

Mov. ave : slow

A spot of rain 23c

Bikes on the open deck of the ferry

More bodies lying on the deck, booking a cabin is not compulsory so you find people all over

Another light load

Back of the Hotel Carlton Tunis, lucky for us the hotel had underground parking

Looking from the front of the hotel towards the heavily guarded ministry of Interior

Razor wire and tanks were the order of the day, keep the camera covered

More tanks

The watch as we were told is where all the trouble is.....!!! Especially on a sunday

The Hotel Africa was a £500 a night spot with steel security barriers,fantastic inside.

Most of the day spent wondering about the boat It arrived at 2.30pm we were welcomed by a spot of rain.We finally cleared at 4.45pm . The hotel had been booked on the main street in town. The demonstrations here started after a market trader had set himself on fire to make a point of the corruption in the government.

The morning passed over filling in the 4 detailed forms required to gain entry to Tunisia, every detail including how many washing machines and cookers you had. The bike has to be imported and exported next week when we leave.

The normal problems of entry did not disappoint and you quickly lose count of the number of officials you visit over the next hour or more.

The city was quiet and the atmosphere outside our hotel was tense, heavily guarded ministry was across the road which has been the scene of most of the political unrest.

At least the car park looked secure and the rooms where good. This was the first time I had been in a curfew situation and it felt very tense on the streets , by 9pm it was deserted totally empty. The main square in a capital city empty by 9pm a strange experience.

Day 06 : Monday 9th May 11 : Gabes,Tunisia

Miles : 257 (1211)

Time : 4h 40m

Mov. ave : 56mph

gray start max at 26c

South to Gabes and the heat via El Jem

Lucky Camel

Shots from El Jem Amphitheater

Donkey Bus

UP for 6am and away by 7am(curfew end) and it's always easier getting out of a big city before the rush, Petrol was the first stop and a nice surprise to see it was only 60p a liter (£1.40 when we left home).

The first 120 miles to El Jem was done on the toll road and allowed us to arrive before the coaches at the biggest Amphitheater outside Rome. A bus of English tourists arrived during our visit and talked of the hotels in the main resorts being only 17% occupied, because of the troubles.

The amphitheater was massive and lots of it remain no wonder it is such a tourist stop. From here it was back towards Sfax and finally Gabes where we found a lovely hotel L'Oasis by the beach.

The ride itself was pretty poor with the land being flat and boring, the only obstacle was the traffic, another country with mad drivers and unbelievable overtaking maneuvers

Day 07 : Tuesday 10th May 2011 : Matmata , Tunisia

Miles : 234

Time : 12h 16m

Mov. ave : 36mph

25c sunny

What a day ...Star wars tour , over 12 hours today and 234 miles

Today had some good ups and downs...very pretty

A night in the Star Wars Hotel , Sidi Dris , Matmata (voted one of the worlds most unusual hotels)

The Rooms in hotel...basic

The hotel is a pit building, Like dug of the ground sort of pit.

And it had a bar....

More of the hotel it was only £10 per person per night,including dinner and breakfast..

Then it was for a look further a field and the first town was Toujane.

Fantastic sights in Toujane and the roads are okay,

Then it was Ksar Hallouf, wonderful spot and the views were magnificent from here,

The bike also looked well

At least Paul is happy...

The oasis of Ksar Hallouf, and our lunch stop was in there somewhere after a spot of sightseeing

Ksar Hadada was the next old town and another film set, once a hotel.

Inside, the Ksar was used in the Star Wars movie as the prison, the building weird and plentiful,

Time for a new friend, it's cruel but at least he is alive.

The mosque at Chenine a fantastic place, people live in caves here high in the hill

Well what a day, another 7am start to beat the rush in Gabes and off to find some good biking roads and scenery. We found both. I made the decision to travel Matmata first have a look at the hotel, decide if we wanted to stay, check in and then go for a ride in the surrounding hills.
The hotel has no internet and pre booking failed as they answer any calls, so at least booking in at 8am will make you one the first. The Hotel Sidi Dris is quite unique and billed in some guide books as one of the most unique hotels in the world.

It is beyond doubt, dug out of the ground it is known as a pit dwelling. Originally separate houses and in 1959 converted into a hotel. It's other claim to fame was being used in Star Wars movie. It is a popular place for coach tours during the day (or was until the recent troubles). Our rush to secure a bed was also not necessary as with the recent troubles we were the only people stopping there that night.

The place is best described as basic 6 beds in our room no on suite, no power sockets and one light. A wooded bed and one blanket, these facilities would not have been Paul's choice but mine and Neil's thoughts are if you have come this far go for it, I did take note that no one showered for dinner. Probably just as well as for what you got would have been a waste of time.

The days bike ride was a belter, a 200 mile loop amongst some fantastic scenery and landscape you are likely to find anywhere. The Ksar's and villages you passed along the way are a wonderful sight. Many of the places and a land has been used in the making of several movies over the years.

In these parts you have to keep an eye on the fuel as petrol does not appear plentiful, donkeys appear to run well enough without it.

With so much to see and so many miles to cover this would be our first finish in the dark, being able to ride into the sunset made it all worth while.

Stamina man Paul continued to party until 10 to 10 then it was bed time and as I write this travel log he is entering his 10th hour of sleep, so much for saying he couldn't sleep in that bed. Most nights the 2 bairnes go to bed early, and as the saying goes "early to bed........." Well I can confirm it's not true.

Day 08: Wednesday 11th May 2011

Miles : 124 (1169)

Time : 6hr

Mov. ave : 46mph

28c hot very

The ride to Douz on the edge of the dessert and puncture day

Our hotel from above ground

Neil outside room door

And inside our room

Then we went off a walk about to see other pit dwellings

about 100 are still lived in

We got a chance to visit the inside of this one

The bedroom

Ready to leave the hotel Sidi Dris, not the best but an experience sleeping in a pit

After only 6 miles I picked up a puncture should I change bike?

Or time for a donkey maybe

Or how about a camel

I had just bought a packet of biscuits when I seen this lad (no shoes), he looked as if he needed them more than me

Then I got a wish, bikes inside the hotel at Douz

Since the finish the previous day had been in the dark we decided that we would take a tour of the village before we set off. The guide or rather a young lad from the village gave us good tour around the pit dwellings. a strange way to live I have too say. But on the other hand quite remarkable.

Then finally we got on our way when after 6 miles the warning light shone on my dashboard to tell of low tyre pressure, wonderful first time in all the foreign trips I have undertaken. The repair didn't happen without problems and 2 hours would pass baking in the sunshine while the team mechanics sorted out the correct way of carrying out the repair.

I have never liked the idea of a repaired tyre so the first few miles were careful ones, the type monitors keeping me aware of the pressure, we made it to the night stop without a problem.

The run to Douz and the loop we done beyond were remarkable like on the edge of the world just sand after sand.

The hotel at Douz provided us with a real bike adventure tale, when I asked if they had anywhere safe for the bike the reply was simple "just bring them in" job done fantastic and no locks tonight. Apart from that the hotel was pretty basic a broken shower no bath plug, but at least we had electric sockets tonight, and 2 taps (hot water).

Day 09: Thursday 12th May 2011 : Tamerza, Tunisia

Miles : 130 (1700)

Time : 4h 45m

Mov. ave : 47mph

31.5c hot

For 2 months or so the lake is flooded and other times its a road

A visit to the animal market in Douz was a lesson and a half

Then it was across the dry lake to Tamerza

Its a while since this boat floated

Even a choice of loo's in the middle of the lake, a good tourist trap, then visit the mans shop

Some water pools still remained, the amount of salt was unusual

Another needy child and another packet of biscuits, notice the name "Smile"

The landscape change and a few twisties were a welcome.

After 4 poor hotels in a row the Tamerza Palace was luxury, proper.

View from the back of hotel. The town was abandoned in 1969 after flooding

The morning would start with a redo of my tyre puncture as 14lbs drop overnight was too much and the risk of failure while on the road was not worth it. It was off for a quick visit to town on foot to witness the hustle of the weekly market. The animal market was a sight to remember for a long time, it's so different the way of life out here. People going to the market to buy a sheep and a chicken or two, putting them on the back of your cart dragged along by your donkey.

The day was one I had looked forward too since the idea was born to visit Tunisia. Riding across the dry salt lake Chott El Fejal. The weather was as you would expect hot and sunny, this would give a true desert feel with heat mirage in most directions and mile after mile of true flatness of the lake bed. Finally the landscape changed and the last run in to Tamerza provided us with good roads and views of a good canyon after a good climb up a pass.

The hotel had been planned as the treat of tour, mainly because it was there. As it turned out it was better than the photos on the web showed us. The setting was true Lawrence of Arabia and everyone was happy, proper happy. A proper hotel, hot water, showers , bath plugs, towels, soap , TV , internet, electric shoe shine (the boots look good) swimming pool. Greeting on arrival of wet towels and Lemonade. now the fault no draught beer (last nights didn't even have beer, a hotel with no beer??), well you can't have it all.

It remains very quiet and tonight the hotel has 10 guests and could probably take 200, compared to the last 2 night where we have been the only people staying in the hotels. So much for the recent troubles, it is certainly killing the tourist trade. I must admit apart from in Tunis where it was a little tense, I can honestly say that the people have been very friendly and helpful. In a country this poor it must be hard to be suffering even further.

Day 10: Friday 13th May 2011 : Sbeitla,Tunisia

Miles : 137(1836)

Time : 5h 42m

Mov. ave : 43mph

34.5c in the shade

This is as close as we got to Algeria

First stop only 6 miles in and a visit to the gorge at Mides

Life is still pretty simple here.

It was a wonderful place Mides, I could had sat it out for days.

Next we tried to visit the frontier with Algeria, sadly it appeared to be out of bounds

At least we got a group shot with the military who put it out of bounds

We always drew a crowd, always friendly until you got closer to Tunis. Then it was want want want.

The morning started with news that Paul had been disturbed during the night by a cockroach on his head, such a laugh and joy to me as it payback for him switching on my heated grips in the desert yesterday.

It took a while for the troops to dragged kicking and screaming from the hotel facilities today. The clock was chiming 11 bells by the time a wheel was turned and by the time we did the temperature in the shade was showing 34.5c, if only we could have stopped longer.

The first stop of the day was only 6 miles in for a visit to the gorge at Mides. What a sight absolutely tremendous, the general feel about the whole area was of total relaxation, so another hour would pass us by. The next objective would be a visit to the frontier border with Algeria. This proved to be impossible, such is the recent troubles that the closest we got was 8km and a few photographs with the military.

Later in the day we would be diverted once again to keep us further away from the border. Time just marched on, and the 130 miles or so seamed to take a long time.The run into Sbielta would take us closer to sights of the troubles that the country is under. Banks had tanks sitting outside reversed up to the wall and surrounded in razor wire.

The hotel for the night was probably the best we passed all day but nothing that would win awards back home. Total lose of scoring would be achieved by the simple fact of selling out of beer.

The decision was taking to jump in a taxi taxi and visit town to reassure us with the fact that nowhere sells beer and all the towns look the same being half built or being demolished. It is hard work to try and work out which is which or weather they have been under attack by some sort of air strike.

Day 11: Saturday 14th May 2011 : Kairouan, Tunisia

Miles : 121 (1957)

Time : 4h

Mov. ave : 48mph

35c on arrival = Hot

121 mile we could have done more but it was hot

Okay a lot of photographs but the Roman ruins at Sbeitla were good

We sort of got mobbed at our drink stop today, friendly but lots of them

Another unfinished town

The hotel was converted from an old prison, I bet the pool is new.

The first change to the pre planned route today, we were due to visit Le Kef tonight, however after a last minute change we shall divert to Kairouan. This was a place brought to our attention by two separate traveling Germans on the ferry. The place reads well and is a Unesco world heritage sight, lies lies lies it also has a 5 star hotel and Le Kef only has 2 star. This will leave us with no more distance to hit Tunis for the ferry on Sunday.

First stop today was next to the hotel and was within walking distance, the Roman ruins of Sbeitla are amongst the best in the world and was a former capital of Tunisia. Time would only allow us a quick brush over the place, and it was well worth the time out to visit.

The run to Kairouan could have been made shorter but maybe too short and the diversion was well it giving us some fantastic roads and once again a change of scenery.

The hotel was a charm being converted from a former prison and 5 star for €35 pp is about as good as it gets.

The city is absolutely fantastic, and luckily we bumped into a young lad Mohammed who walked us around town for a couple of hours guiding us through the narrow streets and souks and pointing out many of the 145 mosques in the city. The city is the best kept we have seen (although still rubbish pilled up in places)

All in all a busy sightseeing day from one to another both very different both interesting

The Grand Mosque, and it was massive

The mosque with the 3 doors

Lots of small alley ways

But still room to ride a bike

Outside the Grand Mosque

Finally out guide gets us back to the hotel

Day12 : Sunday 14th May 2011 : Tunis to Genoa ferry

Miles : 118(2076

Time : 4h 27m

Mov. ave :41mph

36c on leaving hotel

Sunday and the return to the ferry, via ice cream in Hemmamet

The former cells had been turned into a coffee shop

Hammamet seafront, not that good but it would pass if all you wanted was sunshine

Ready for boarding, we were 4 hours late in sailing

It's hard to stop playing look at all that on that car

The rubber plug (no glue) was still doing well after 600 miles, at least we made the boat(it was still okay at 1500mile)

Well the last day in Tunisia , and out mission was not to miss the ferry and face a 4 day wait. It was simple plan head straight for Tunis and drop into Harman on the way which would allow us to witness what the average tourist will see in Tunisia. Not much just an average foreign sort of beach resort, with a few touts pushing their wares.

Then back to Tunis and lunch (kebab) on the main street where we had stopped one week previous, we must have getting used to the tanks. The people look at you but I think more in curiosity than malice.

Then the ferry, don't get there too early was the decision minimize the hassle etc, the place did not disappoint us. Several more queues more forms then the reality bit, if people are still coming off the ferry how can we leave on time? We couldn't and the 4pm departure was delayed until 8pm. This would mess up the plan for the following day, as an arrival in Genoa at 8pm would not allow us to do the planned 200 miles to Anderrmatt.

Day 13 : Monday 16th May 2011 : Somewhere off Corsica

Miles : Nil

Time :

Mov. ave :

nice and sunny outside

Not what we wanted but as the ferry was delayed even further and another night was spent on board, at least we got a refund, free supper and it saved a night in a hotel. Originally we were told that the 4pm arrival would be at 8pm then 10 pm and then moved to 5.30am the next morning, this was a better option and provided us with an early start and we could save the problem of looking for a hotel in the dark.

Day 14 : Tuesday 17th May 2011 : Interlarken, Switzerland

Miles : 262(2338)

Time : 6h 54m

Mov. ave : 54mph

as low as 8c on top


	After eventually arriving in Genoa 16 hrs late we headed for Interlarken via 3 passes in good conditions Fairly flat and then up you go. Made a good end to the day. At last the port of Genoa 8000 foot and cold another high pass and the last of 3 still plenty of snow about the waterfalls at Lauterbrunnen are impressive
Eventually we pulled away from the port at 8am, and headed for lunch to Andermatt where we should have been the night before. The run was good and fast. Our luck changed and all off the swiss passes were open allowing us to miss the St Gothard tunnel and use the pass to Andermatt. Next was the Furka and the Grimsal taking us to over 8000 foot , it was bright but cold and we did not hang round for long. We were informed that the pass only opened on Monday and in the past I have seen it closed until June. Interlarken was very busy so we decided to jump a train and do a spot of sightseeing ending up in Wengan and Lauterbrunnen. Here it was the opposite and a lot of business was closed or on reduced opening till June. This did not prevent us enjoying the fantastic views that this area can provide.

Day 15 : Wednesday 18th May 2011 : K0blenz, Germany

Miles : 344(2683)

Time : 8h 25m

Mov. ave : 62mph

max 29.5 and sunny

It was Switzerland for Breakfast, France for lunch and Germany for tea, long hot run

Koblenz, at the point where the Rhine meets the Mossel

I never like leaving Interlarken, but that's part of the deal, you can't stop forever. It was a gem the sun was shining and the views were in full glory.

From this point on you always feel that no matter how you dress it up you are heading home. With over 300 mile to do to balance the run to the ferry. fellow riders always ask can we not use the back roads and leave the motorways, in short no.

The ride would be approximate 80 in Switzerland the 150 France and the into Germany and the only diversion would be lunch in a quaint French town rather than another motorway service area.

The ride was very hot today and Koblenz was very busy and it took a few attempts to find a hotel and another day had passed by very quickly.

Day 16 : Thursday 19th May 2011 : Ijumden, Holland and the ferry home

Miles : 238

Time : 5h 40m

Mov. ave : 62mph

a bit cold for a while

All done

Route one and on everyone's mind is the 240 mile to the ferry at 4pm, the best stop today would be the McDonalds at Venlo as you enter Holland.

The run was excellent and a little quieter than it has been in the past and it allowed for plenty of stops including fish and chips at the end of the run.

Conclusions: Pauls thoughts on Tunisia 2011

Apprehension because of the country's troubles in recent times and not knowing what to expect entirely. Got to say other than the presence of razor wire, guns and tanks these thoughts proved totally unfounded. The Tunisian people on the whole are very friendly and you never felt uneasy around them. Traveling from top to bottom we experienced the country's real culture and how they live. We stayed in some fantastic hotels, equally we stayed in some much more basic places which really makes you appreciate how privileged we are. Highlights include some fantastic riding which was helped by fantastic weather and of course Billy and Neil's impeccable planning. Visiting the sets of star wars and where it all happened, walking around the various towns and soaking up the hectic atmosphere and pace of life even though it's generations behind us back home. A country that has it's fair share of problems but well worthy of a visit for the more adventurous !

Tunisia 2011 Neil's thoughts
Before we arrived I knew that Tunisia would have lots to offer and the revolution one thing that was obvious, it would be different.
The sense of apprehension started on the ferry, with the chance encounter with a well spoken Tunisian who worked for the Tunisian embassy in Bonn. ''You should not stay in Tunis, go to Hammamet'' He then went onto explain that we arrived on Sunday and as it was everyones day off then there was more unrest and still a curfew.

As we went round the roundabout a motorbike passed us with a guy on the back with a tear gas grenade gun across his back. Yes Tunisia would be different. Clean hotel good underground parking, but no customers. Outside on the main street it was like the BBC news lots of police, army, razor wire and not many people. By 9pm the place was deserted and under curfew. Unreal.

Next day, on the Bikes and off. Just like any other trip. Gabes was not the best place to stop, we knew that from the Guide books, but it was a stepping stone. Matmatta and the next day were interesting. Mountains, changing scenery, good roads followed by a salt lake on the edge of the desert. Fantastic. The faces of the people at the animal Market in Douz told me. We really were at the end of ''our world''
Yes the palace hotel at Tamerza and the Kasbah at Kairoian were nice places and our walk round the souk was interesting, but the faces of the people and the whole experience of the animal Market in Douz was for me something you have to travel a long way to see.

Equipment thoughts: The bike could not have been better and my only problem was a puncture that I am amazed that a plug inserted from outside of the tyre was still holing full pressure after 1500 miles, must have one.

Also took along a jetboil and a collapsible cup all fitted in can and this was used a lot saving horrible cups of coffee in horrible places, find a nice spot and brew up.

The tour was undertaken by 4 bikes, 3 BMW 1200 GS's and 1 KTM 900 Adventure, the KTM was terrible 120 tank range(and you have to fill 2 tanks)compared to over 340 on the GS adventure. The luggage system was poor and worst of all get the bike to over 80 and it just does not handle. It sort of weaves about.

Autocom complete with 5w Kenwood radios (licence radios) and external aerial provide up to 4 mile communications, I also used ultimate ears for the first time and these were brilliant.